Benin: the Ebony Train

  The Ebony Train is an (allegedly) restored 1922 colonial train. A small diesel engine pulling two teak wood carriages chugging along a rusty old track. Over a two day journey we travel inland, getting deeper and deeper into Voodoo country. As we pass small villages, children come out waving and giggling and run after(…)

Benin: Ganvie

  Ganvie, a fishing village built entirely on stilts on Lake Nokwe has an interesting founding myth. In the 18th century, King Gezo, was an expansionist warrior-king who waged war on many communities in order to capture slaves for sale to the European powers. Realizing that Gezo had his sights on them, the inhabitants of(…)

Benin: Ouidah

  Benin feels a bit like Togo on steroids. More developed, more expensive, more French (the hypermarket in Cotonou stocks all the French brands we ┬ámiss: Carte d’Or, Lu, Yoplait !). And also, more animist. The roads feel like a time warp which brings us back to the French roads of the 1970’s – full(…)