Zimbabwe: the ghosts of Harare

  Zimbabwe’s capital, Harare (Salisbury before Independence) used to be known as the garden city of Africa. With its broad jacaranda-lined avenues, many parks and temperate weather, it was (and might just still be) one of the most pleasant cities in world. It is possible today if one looks beyond the broken roads, garbage accumulating(…)

Zimbabwe: Scotland below the Equator

  Our last stop in the Eastern Highlands is Nyanga. With its craggy mountains and green meadows full of wild flowers, trout filled streams and pine forests, more than anywhere else in Africa Nyanga feels like Scotland. And like Scotland, Nyanga distinguishes itself by its bone chillingly cold and damp evenings. Perhaps that is why(…)

Zimbabwe: Eastern Highlands – the Bvumba

  In a hidden valley just near the Mozambique border, lies the Bvumba, a region of hills and valleys so pretty that the Queen Mother and Princess Margaret spent a night here in 1953. Nothing much has changed since then…   The Leopard Rock Hotel (Queen¬†Mary stayed in room 7, Princess Margaret in room 11…in(…)

Zimbabwe: Eastern Highlands – Chimanimani

  Driving through the winding mountain roads of Zimbabwe’s Eastern Highlands, one could be forgiven for thinking that one has been magically transported from Africa to the Cotswolds, or to Vermont. With their cool climate, lush vegetation, pretty inns and gardens and trout-filled streams, the Highlands are a haven for the soul. But it is(…)

Zimbabwe: conservation with a twist

  Chilo Gorge Lodge, in the lowveld area of Zimbabwe do things differently. It is a place which tries to put the concept of social enterprise in practice. ¬†Chilo was founded when conservationist Clive Stockil was brought in to mediate a dispute in the 1970’s between the then Rhodesian government and the Shangaan tribe who(…)