Tanzania: Lost Empire

We drive two hours from Dar to the small town of Bagamoyo, where we spend a night. Originally an Omani Arab settlement, it was the coastal terminus of the slave and ivory caravans from the interior in the 19th century. It was also briefly, from 1888 to 1890 the headquarters of the German East Africa(…)

Tanzania: can’t get rid of AK !

I thought my friend Nicolas would appreciate that one ! After Bundang, Guro etc…get ready for Dar Es Salam !

Tanzania: lost in Dar…

Dar Es Salam is not a tourist city and seldom features in the standard safari itineraries. So we really stand out when we wander the streets and markets of the city (rather aimlessly) ! The Kariakoo Market, East Africa’s biggest – its cathedral-like basement feels like the Paris catacombs…    

Tanzania: Arrival in Dar Es Salam

Tanzania’s commercial capital (and capital of the ex-German East Africa – until 1918), Dar Es Salam, the Abode of Peace in Arabic, is an pleasant city, best described as – sleepy ex-colonial backwater meets vibrant African city. The old colonial public buildings, “five foot way” shophouses lining the streets and stately bungalows in the suburbs(…)

Tanzania: Mid-Autumn Festival in the bush

On the 19th of September, our last night in the Selous, under a voluptuous full moon, we celebrate the Mid-Autumn festival in style. On a small verandah overlooking the Ruffiji river, we set up three lantern-like candles and carefully carve up into four equal parts a mooncake brought all the way from Hong Kong for(…)