Kenya: A night at the Mine

Our friend’s mine manager meets us at the Taita Hills Lodge to guide us to the mine’s secret location in the Tsavo region, a two hour drive away through small villages, plantations and bush country. The mine is located deep in the bush, with several working pits scattered over a large area. The camp has(…)

Kenya: Why it is called the “lunatic express”

We leave the Maasai Mara on August 26th for a brief watering stop in Nairobi, which is supposed to be followed by a journey to Mombassa on the night train, also called , in Victorian times, the “lumatic express” when the Nairobi to Mombassa section of the Uganda Railway was being built in 1913. Perhaps(…)

Kenya: River crossing in the Mara

The Great Migration is an almost supernatural phenomenon. 3.5 million animals thundering across the Serengeti and the Mara plains in search of better grazing, as if guided by an invisible hand. We witnessed 10,000, maybe more, wildebeest crossing the Mara River like an irresistible force. A flow of dark energy, undulating over the river and(…)

Kenya: Arrival in the Maasai Mara

On the drive from the airstrip to the Nkorombo Camp, we see lions within five minutes. This will be an oft repeated pattern. The Mara is teeming with animals, more than we have ever seen before on safaris. They ignore the mechanical beasts we ride in and wander nonchalantly around us. This is probably the(…)

Kenya: Humbled in Nairobi.

Andre went for an early morning run today. The only white guy around among groups of workers getting off their matatus and school children walking to school. It suddenly dawned upon me, as I was getting effortlessly overtaken by young children late for school, that I was in the homeland of the world’s top long(…)