Uganda: Eccentric haven

  The Fort Portal area of South West Uganda is dotted with crater lakes, the witnesses to the enormous volcanic activity which shook the region 30,000 years ago. Cold, shrouded in mist during the rainy season, it has a slightly mysterious quality to it. The Kyaninga Crater Lake lies on top of two mildly active(…)

Uganda: African Road to Queen Elizabeth Park

  Visited by the Queen in 1954, the National Park has born her name ever since (with a short interruption during the Idi Amin years). The road to the park is more like a linear town, with continuous activity on both sides over a 100km distance. Every few kilometers, we see the ubiquitous mobile phone(…)

Uganda: Murchison Falls

  Uganda’s biggest National Park, Murchison Falls also has the distinction of probably being the only National Park in the world where oil companies are actively drilling for oil. So the sightings of animals are augmented by sightings of Total and Halliburton trucks criss crossing the park (no sign of Exxon yet, Hock Lye !).(…)

Uganda: the Karamajong

  The Karamajong are a group of Nilotic herders, similar in some ways to the Maasai. Their fearsome reputation among other Ugandans comes from their warlike culture and their prowess with weapons. Like in other warrior cultures, the boys are raised in a spartan manner and are said to “enjoy living a tough life”. They(…)

Uganda: to the Far North

It is a 12 hour drive from Mount Elgon, on bumpy roads to reach the Far North of Uganda, on the border with South Sudan. That area, the poorest in Uganda, had been off-limits to visitors for many years. From the spillover of the war in the Sudan to constant armed cattle raiding by warlike(…)