We’re back in the highlands, at Mount Elgon, a chain of extinct volcanoes in the east of Uganda, on the Kenyan border. Like elsewhere in Africa, we find the more fertile highland regions with a more temperate climate heavily populated. Every inch of the mountains, with the exception of the national park, is carved into a jigsaw of small plots whose owners manage to grow cassava, maize, bananas, coffee and keep a few animals.