Uganda’s biggest national park, Murchison Falls also has the distinction of probably being the only national park in the world where oil companies are actively drilling for oil. So the sightings of animals are augmented by sightings of Total and Halliburton trucks criss-crossing the park (no sign of Exxon yet, Hock Lye !).
The Falls themselves are spectacular. The Nile, on its 6,500km journey to the Mediterranean, gets squeezed into a 6m bottleneck from where it explodes out at 300 cubic meters per second.
Paara Lodge, where we stay, has another surprise for us. As I walk to the bar, I get that strange sense of deja vu, and realise that this is the same bar that features in an old black and white photograph of my father, who stayed here in 1962